Useful Guides

Glue Film Heat Activated Guide

Marquetry Panel Gluing Guide

Pearl Glue Guide

Polishing Kit Guide

Oyster Wood Veneers Guide

Veneer Tape Guide

This is essentially a hot melt EVA adhesive, supplied on thin film backing paper. Extremely convenient for veneering and where a thin coating of glue is required, especially onto MDF or Plywood.

It melts at a relatively low temperature of around 85°C to 90°C. Heat can be applied from an iron, hot air blower, heated press etc.

Apply by either peeling off the paper and laying in position or tack into position by applying heat through the backing paper.

1. Prepare the area to be glued, ensuring it is flat, clean (dust free) and dry.
2. Remove the glue film from the backing paper and keep the backing paper for step 4.
3. Lay the glue film on the surface that is to be glued, then place your veneer on top. Ensure that the veneer is of good quality and flat.
4. Using the backing paper that came with the glue film, place it on the very top.
5. Set your iron to the correct temperature as stated above. Then start to iron over the backing paper as well as pushing down with a veneer hammer or veneer roller.
6. Do NOT overheat or overwork the same area with the iron!

Please store the panels in a cool, dry place; flat, under a press/weight or in clamps until ready for use.

Our marquetry panels are made with 0.6mm thick veneers, making them delicate and brittle. Wood filler has already been applied. Veneer tape is used to hold all the pieces together and should be glued with the veneer tape side uppermost (facing up) and visible.

Square Marquetry Panels: Allow 10mm or more of the background around the marquetry itself, these panels can be easily placed into your veneer assembly with the help of inlay bandings.

Oval & Round Marquetry Panels: Including Fans, Corners & Quadrants are all made with a fine inlay banding line around the edge. These can be easily placed into your veneer assembly.

1. Ensure the area to be glued is smoothly sanded, clean (dust and grease free) and dry.
2. Glue down with the veneer tape side uppermost (facing up) and visible. Depending on the glue’s specification, place under a press/weight or in clamps for the appropriate time.
3. Once the glue is dry, the veneer tape can be removed by slightly dampening the tape and carefully rubbing it off with a scraper.
4. The marquetry is now ready to be finished; sanded, sealed and polished.

Ideal for veneering, repair and restoration, especially when gluing antique furniture pieces.

1. Place nearly all the glue into a container and cover with cold water, just slightly above the glue level. Set some aside, as some glue may be needed for step 6.
2. Leave aside for a few hours and wait until all the water has been absorbed. For best results, leave overnight.
3. Now place the glue into a glue pot ready to be heated.
4. The glue is ready once it has all melted. Check its consistency by submerging a paint brush, the glue should run off like honey.
5. If it is too dense, keep adding small amounts of hot water until perfected.
6. If it becomes too runny, too much water was added. Adjust by adding more animal glue otherwise the glue will lose its strength.
7. Work quickly, as once cooled the glue will dry and solidify. For best drying results, leave overnight and/or in cold environment.

Technical Data:
• Strength: 170 – 190g
• Viscosity: 40 – 50mPs

The Easy Method with a Great Result

1. Work with the grain where possible and sand the veneer in stages, from medium to fine grade. Use a 240 grit high quality sandpaper to finish your veneered piece.
2. Prior to the next applications, ensure all areas to be coated are smoothly sanded, clean (dust and grease free) and dry.
3. Before using the Shellac Sealer, shake well. With a cloth, apply in 2 or 3 coats. Where possible, work with the grain and allow drying time in between the coats. The more coats (of Shellac Sealer) applied will give a shinier finish.
4. Once the Shellac Sealer is dry, rub down using the fine steel wool.
5. Apply the Wax Polish in generous amounts using a cloth and remove any excess wax with a clean cloth.
6. Buff with a woollen cloth.

Please store in a cool, dry place and flat.

Oyster veneers, especially olive tree oyster veneers are always curved and never flat. This guide is to be used only if the oyster veneers are curved! Animal/pearl glue is recommended for gluing.

1. Dip the oyster veneer into hot water for 5 minutes or more, depending on its pliability.
2. Place the oyster veneer under a press/weight or in clamps, allowing the veneer to push out the water and start to flatten. Wait until all the water has seeped out.
3. Let the veneer air dry a little but not completely. The veneer needs to be damp.
4. Again, place the oyster veneer under a press/weight or in clamps.
5. The longer the veneer is left under pressure, the flatter it becomes.
6. For best results, leave overnight. It will be both dry and flat.

Ideal for joining separate pieces of wood veneer, joining marquetry panels to a veneer assembly and to repair splits in wood veneer.

1. Ensure that when working with a veneer tape roll, it is kept away from water. As the whole roll could absorb water and solidify.
2. Place a small wet sponge in a dish or container and cut the required amount of veneer tape from the roll.
3. Run the veneer tape over the sponge (like sticking a stamp on an envelope).
4. Place the dampened veneer tape on your veneer. To ensure it is glued down, apply a small amount of pressure by running your hand over the veneer tape. Then, remove any excess water with a cloth.
5. Repeat the process with the next piece of veneer tape, slightly overlapping the previous one to ensure complete coverage.
6. Once completely covered, place the veneer under strong pressure/weight or in clamps for a minimum of 8 hours. The longer it’s under pressure, the better the results.
7. Glue your veneer into position with the veneer tape uppermost (facing up) and visible.
8. Once the glue is dry, the veneer tape can be removed by slightly dampening the tape and carefully rubbing it off with a scraper.
9. The veneer is now ready to be finished; sanded, sealed and polished.